Buying New plugs

Blue Hewes

Well-Known Member
I had some good success with plugs this summer and I’m looking to add a few more to the arsenal. Most of what I have are Tomic 6” classic style with the odd tubby and 5” in the mix. I”ve had the most success with a 602uvbii classic in 6”. What I’m stuck on is, if I want to buy 1 plug in a specific pattern should I get the 5 or the 6” and should it be in classic or tubby. What would be your first choice be in a new pattern? I’m hoping that the more experienced plug anglers can provide some feedback. Do you find a big difference in success at times using a 5” over a 6”? As in they won’t touch a 6” but as soon as you toss on a 5” the bites come on? I know with the tubby you can troll them slower than the classic which is nice when running say a flasher combo on the other side so that’s a bonus. But does the thicker body make a difference over the slimmer classic on hookups based on the size? With a cost of $22-$25 each I’m tying to avoid buying what I may not need.
 
My best plugs are ones I bought used. The ones with all the teeth marks! Usually 5" but of course I've caught more fish on that size simply because I've had them in the water more. Haven't given the 6" size nearly the same chance.

Last year Pacific Net and Twine in Errington had a big barrel of tomics for cheap by the front door. Great fun to pick through. Not sure if they still do, haven't been in there for a while.

This is my #1 killer.

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My best plugs are ones I bought used. The ones with all the teeth marks! Usually 5" but of course I've caught more fish on that size simply because I've had them in the water more. Haven't given the 6" size nearly the same chance.

Last year Pacific Net and Twine in Errington had a big barrel of tomics for cheap by the front door. Great fun to pick through. Not sure if they still do, haven't been in there for a while.

This is my #1 killer.

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That looking pretty worn for sure. I bet you’re afraid of losing that one! Is that a classic 5”?
 
i usually start the season with 31/2 or 4 and work up as the season progresses I like the 602 and the 500?(light blue/ silver). Change up a size when it no longer gets hits or is slow. I always pull the pins also-don't lose many plugs that way plus I believe(anacdotal) they have better action
 
i usually start the season with 31/2 or 4 and work up as the season progresses I like the 602 and the 500?(light blue/ silver). Change up a size when it no longer gets hits or is slow. I always pull the pins also-don't lose many plugs that way plus I believe(anacdotal) they have better action
Do you have multiple sizes in the same patterns? I was wondering if that might be a better way to go. Stick to a few colours and get them in the different sizes.
 
i usually start the season with 31/2 or 4 and work up as the season progresses I like the 602 and the 500?(light blue/ silver). Change up a size when it no longer gets hits or is slow. I always pull the pins also-don't lose many plugs that way plus I believe(anacdotal) they have better action
Do you have multiple sizes in the same patterns? I was wondering if that might be a better way to go. Stick to a few colours and get them in the different sizes.
That is exactly what I do-if I have a colour that works-such as a 602 or the 500 I have it in most sizes as well as a tubby. I tend to fish very deep with 20 lb balls-- area (CR-Kitty). Flashers cause tangles and are a pain to retrieve. Plug caught fish are more fun
 
I normally run 5 inch 500 & 602 in the 90s in Nootka and the 500 was deadly. I purchased some 5 inch 602uvbii last summer from Catheine with Tomic and picked up at Critter where I was staying due to hard to find in stores . No luck with it ,but sure is a pretty lure to look at :) My highlight with all the years of fishing was in 1997 when my eight year old son back then in Nootka playing and landing 28 lb with a 5 inch 500 . I have been recenty using 3 and 4 inch and was good last summer with cohos in Sooke as I am thinking bait is smaller now.
 
I am no expert (I finally gave the plugs enough of a chance this year to catch a few fish on them) but I read a few tips that said it’s not a bad idea to try the plug first to test the action before you pull the pins. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it seemed to be a recurring theme.
You can improve the action of a plug somewhat by tying it on with a loop knot instead of the standard clinch or trilene knot. The loop allows the plug to move more freely side to side.
IMO the best loop knot is called the Kreh or Non-Slip loop knot because the tag end faces backward, catching less weeds or debris. I tie the plug directly to the end of my 30 lb mono with no swivel or leader and run it at least 30’ back of the clip. The 602 in a 5” classic was my best producer this season.
 

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I like 4", 5" and 6" 602's. I usually start with the 5". Tubby or not, it's all about checking your action. Like all gear, I check the roll or action against my speed in both directions, with and against the current. I've set them up 40 feet back or as little as 8 feet behind a dummy. Everything works if you're confident in it. I like a little rod tip bobbing action when the gear is down there to know that thing is tugging and dancing all over the place.
 
I am no expert (I finally gave the plugs enough of a chance this year to catch a few fish on them) but I read a few tips that said it’s not a bad idea to try the plug first to test the action before you pull the pins. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it seemed to be a recurring theme.
Good tip. I bought some from Tomic a couple years ago and most of them I pulled the pins right away. Well, there are some in that bunch that do not swim properly, even by changing the size of the hook, etc. (as they act like a bit of a rudder) So I learned to always try the plug first before you pull the pin. I think it would be hard to get a replacement from where you buy them if the pin is out. Remember that on the Tomic website they have some suggestions on where to tie the knot as well as pulling the pin.
 
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I am no expert (I finally gave the plugs enough of a chance this year to catch a few fish on them) but I read a few tips that said it’s not a bad idea to try the plug first to test the action before you pull the pins. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it seemed to be a recurring theme.
You can improve the action of a plug somewhat by tying it on with a loop knot instead of the standard clinch or trilene knot. The loop allows the plug to move more freely side to side.
IMO the best loop knot is called the Kreh or Non-Slip loop knot because the tag end faces backward, catching less weeds or debris. I tie the plug directly to the end of my 30 lb mono with no swivel or leader and run it at least 30’ back of the clip. The 602 in a 5” classic was my best producer this season.
Interesting about the loop knot. I've always heard and applied the opposite theory - wanting a tight cinched knot so it stays high up on the tow bar. I actually use the dummy knot trick myself - if you look at the pic I posted you can see the dummy knot on the bar. I'd tie my actual knot above that and push them both up high on the bar so the plug swims nose down. So many different ways to run plugs though I'm sure yours works for its own reasons. I've also tried the elastic band thing, but found that to be a pain and the bands kept breaking.
 
Interesting about the loop knot. I've always heard and applied the opposite theory - wanting a tight cinched knot so it stays high up on the tow bar. I actually use the dummy knot trick myself - if you look at the pic I posted you can see the dummy knot on the bar. I'd tie my actual knot above that and push them both up high on the bar so the plug swims nose down. So many different ways to run plugs though I'm sure yours works for its own reasons. I've also tried the elastic band thing, but found that to be a pain and the bands kept breaking.
Those blue bands on broccoli work well
 
Interesting about the loop knot. I've always heard and applied the opposite theory - wanting a tight cinched knot so it stays high up on the tow bar. I actually use the dummy knot trick myself - if you look at the pic I posted you can see the dummy knot on the bar. I'd tie my actual knot above that and push them both up high on the bar so the plug swims nose down. So many different ways to run plugs though I'm sure yours works for its own reasons. I've also tried the elastic band thing, but found that to be a pain and the bands kept breaking.

I tried the dummy knot method first and I understand that the purpose of tying higher up to drive the nose down is to create more drag and therefore more side-to-side action but I can’t help but think the stiff attachment point acts counter to the objective. I also have some plugs with the pins pulled and I’ve tried them as well.
I started using the loop knot this year because of my past experience with running Rapala minnows in lakes for trout. Rapala recommends loop knots to allow more freedom of movement and I thought this could apply to Tomic plugs as well.
My new-found success can more likely be attributed to trying plugs when the fish were biting instead of only when my tried-and-true methods weren’t producing which is what I tended to do in the past.
 
I started plug fishing this year and I'm a convert. No flasher... I don't even fish spoons with a flasher anymore.

Big plugs, big fish I heard... makes sense.

602 & 700 were both good for us this year, I like the 6" tubby, my son likes the 5". We got a few patterns in 5" and 6" and a tubby.
 
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