470 merc manifold/risers

newfie boy

Active Member
hi looking for merc 470 riser and manifold,if you are parting out i would appreciate an opportuinty to purchase.thanks for your help and happy new year. please email or phone 250-995-1403 thanks again.
 
Hi NB. Why are you changing your manifold and riser? The manifold is antifreeze cooled and it's pretty rare they nead replacing. If your injesting water into your engine the riser & gaskets are probably all you nead to replace. Any used 470 riser is usually a bad idea,(if not already corroded through there usually close to it) new ones arn't that dear. (Look into the sierra brand, there cheap & most marine parts places sell them.)

P.S There are two different ones, One has the resavoir on the front,the other has it on the back if my long term memory surves me right.(Sorry been a while, don't see many 470's these days.)

I'm setting my priorities. I'm making time for fishing.
 
Hi again newfie. Got your E mail, Tried phoning, no answer. The split you speak of I assume is in the baffle directly under the riser. If so have your mechanic pressure test the antifreeze part of the manifold, if it holds pressure I wouldn't worry about the split. Most of them are cracked at the baffle. It's thin and one good overheat and voila. Simply make a plate to cover the riser gasket surface and seal it up with a gasket. Plug off one hose end with a pluged hose then rig up a pressure tester to the other end and give it a pressure test. You can heat the manifold with a heat gun if you really want to be sure it's OK. Probably is.

PS Make shure you can get a good gasket surface before you waist your time pressure testing.Hope this helps.

I'm setting my priorities. I'm making time for fishing.
 
Ha newf, was thinkin about it. If your antifreeze stays full all the time(you never have to top it up)I wouldn't even worry about the pressure test. Just install a new riser and give it a try. If your oil is real milky it will take several oil changes to clear it up. It should start coming golden after 2or 3 changes providing it's not so bad it's turned to sludge(a quike look in the oil fill hole and on the inside of the valve cover will tell you if it's sludge)if it is pull the cover and see how bad it is. If real thick may wan't more than oil changes) clean cover and top of head before starting the flush. If the oil doesn't clear after a few oil changes you still have a problem so each time keap a oil sample to compare to the previus one,the oil should get clearer each time. Make sure you get all the oil out each time. After draining give it a quike cranking with the filter off to pump out the lines.

First change(if possible just change it,at least pump out the staight water, each change there after make sure the oil is good and hot.(keap an eye on your pressure gauge) Once oil comes clean put on new filter & go use your boat for the day then change it again(nead to be sure all the salt water is gone.) For flushing use the cheapest oil you can get,(not to thick 10/30 or so) two new filters are probably good enough for flushing(let the other drain between flushes then reuse.) Use a new filter and good oil for your final change. Good luck G,F.

I'm setting my priorities. I'm making time for fishing.
 
I have a new manifold and riser assy. Do you still need it?

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Fill the dam tub!
 
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