1977 Searay 240 rebuild

gunnerlove

gunnerlove

Well-Known Member
So long and short I bought a podded 1977 Searay Weekender last summer knowing that the floor (cabin sole as shipwrights keep telling me) was going to need to be redone in the near future. I think the future is here.

It was podded and gone through in 2006, the deck developed some soft spots in 2013 as a result of the very very shoddy workmanship and was "fixed" by covering it with another layer of 3/4" ply and some glass. I blame Alberni Fisher for making me think it is possible.

IMG_20170112_185938613.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
IMG_20170112_185938613.jpg
 
Last edited:
Why did I store it with a full tank? Why did the fuel sender decide to stop working 10 minutes into draining? Why was I standing in the drive way at minus 3? After 200L how big is this stupid tank?

Yes, that is a drywall anchor. I guess the floor was so soft in that spot they used the anchor to hold the second layer to it while the resin or glue cured to the first layer (if there is anything between the layers).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170112_185935253.jpg
    IMG_20170112_185935253.jpg
    144.6 KB · Views: 353
  • IMG_20170112_185938613.jpg
    IMG_20170112_185938613.jpg
    200.3 KB · Views: 331
  • IMG_20170112_190036129.jpg
    IMG_20170112_190036129.jpg
    109 KB · Views: 330
  • IMG_20170113_171114611.jpg
    IMG_20170113_171114611.jpg
    149.6 KB · Views: 338
looks like quite the project, i pulled the floor and podded a wellcraft last year, i was really happy when then transom was solid, and just one bad stringer
 
Since I am not cutting the tank out till it is empty I decided to cut a couple smaller holes. While damp it appears the terrible areas are all related to raw plywood edges that were cut out for cheap and cheesey access hatches. At 68lbs a sheet of 3/4" ply my deck is going to lose over 200 lbs in wood alone, then there is the moisture in the wood and foam. I am going to need to reprop and should go weigh it as soon as the tank is empty.
 
Last edited:
Nice project. I have a soft spot for those old Sea Rays.

Redoing a sole is not too hard if nothing else is wrong. It's amazing how much 3/4 Douglas fir they went through back then...and how indifferent they seem to have been about the possibility of water getting underneath it.

The big issue I would be stressed out about would be all the interior stuff that has to come out on a weekender before you have full access to the sole. Sinks and cabinets and built-in seats...that's kind of a pain to pull and replace imo.
 
I assume that back in 2006 the interior of the boat was very much simplified. The fridge was tossed , the stove is gone, no water tanks, the under seat storage is all foam free compartments open to the hull and I can beat on 2/3 of the forward half of the main stringers. I will say that thank god they left me the original fuzzy white(ish) head liner. Did I mention it appears the two main stringers were cut to put in a 6ft wide fish well 2 ft forward of the transom? It is okay though because I can rely on the 1.5"s of plywood and wet tooth picks that are the rearmost deck to hold the back of the boat on and I know it is attached in a well engineered manner that may involve drywall anchors. Did I mention it is waterlogged under propped and still does 50mph? What could the stresses be.

If you are not laughing, you should be, as I am. I really am.
 
Those Searay's really are a great riding hull so keep smiling knowing that when your done it will all be worth it.
 
So right now I am thinking deck wise of going with 5/8" ply, a sealing coat of resin and a layer of 1.5 oz chopped strand on the underside and on the top a sealing coat, a layer of 1208, a layer of 1.5oz mat, and two layers of jelcoat including a thickened nonskid coat. Keep in mind it will be backed up with pour in place foam.
 
That sounds like overkill to me, and even though I'm a fan of overkill generally, that just sounds like unnecessary work.

The stitch and glue builders mainly use glass fabric for abrasion resistance, IIRC. If it was me, unless you're spanning huge distances, I'd use 1/2" meranti, epoxy the bottom, glass the top with something like 12oz biaxial fabric, and finish however you like.

And if you are spanning huge distances between the stringers and sub-stringers and hull, I guess again if it was me I'd be changing that, since you'll have access. A good solid grid of stringers and bulkheads with even a 1/4" sole is better than floppy framing with an anvil for a deck.
 
Soak the plywood in epoxy like rot fix both sides and you will never have to worry about the floor again. 5/8 will be very strong and wont need much glass anymore, especially when epoxied which make the wood like steel.
 
Why are you putting foam in? I promotes fuel tank rot and will weigh your boat down if it gets wet
 
I am foaming mostly because the factory did and looking at 18" tall stringers with one bulkhead makes me want something between them if they start to flex. I could build a scantling grid to flesh it out but that will add sheets of plywood, glassing, and tabbing and coating and possibly introducing hard points into the hull. So more weight, and time to replace something that worked for 30 years. I like the idea of damage resistant floatation, and won't be foaming the tank into place.
 
What you plan on doing would last for many years Will,but as others have said epoxy has better water resistance than polyester especially under the sole where there will be condensation.I would give the underside of plywood a good soak in epoxy resin,no need for cloth.If your worried about not enough support for the plywood between bulkheads you can put a few cross members in supported by your stringers,make sure their sealed as well.Putting foam in is a tough call,I've seen a lot of water soaked foam,make sure it's closed cell if you do it.Finishing the top of plywood is easier,soak plywood with seal coat,let cure and then apply mat and I would add some cloth or roving where the sole meets hull around outside of ply.Don't make your nonskid too abrasive or you'll be going through lots of leader when you get back to fishing.
 
Gunnerlove, I have rebuilt and podded three mid 1970's 24ft searays. Each time I had learned from the last build and was able to apply inovative ideas to the new custom jobs. They were designed to be charter boats with fish handling, processing and storage efficiency in mind. The last build turned out the best of course but there is always some things that could be improved on and I would do differently next time. I still have one sitting in my yard in port alberni. If you wanted to have a look I would run you thru it. There could be some valuable insight for you here.
 
IMG_20170121_160830705_HDR.jpg IMG_20170121_172444853.jpg Got called into work for 5 hours which cut into my productivity but. Effing screws everywhere so I cut most of it with a sawsall and demo blades.




Hope to get it pulled in the am before I go back to work.
 
Last edited:
I just want to say good for you for wearing hearing protection. So many of us wear the gear at work, and then at home we skip it and just get the task done. In the long run you pay for that, as my friend EEEEEEEEEE the constant high-pitched whine and I can now testify.

Great to see a guy working at home, wearing the gear that's going to keep him functional for decades to come. Smart call.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top