18.5 Double eagle rebuild
- Thread starter Claunder
- Start date
lol this is great advice! I’ll let ya know how we make out once we get on the tack!Probably no problems while cruising but the biggest issue might be steering while trolling in any kind of headwind. Make the biggest guy drive the boat and you could be fine
seachicken
Active Member
Looks great, same colors as my 20' had originally. 36 mph at 3900 sounds pretty good. Now that I've had mine out a bit I wonder if the motor needs lifted another hole...
Couple questions though, how did you mount the transducer without screws into the transom and is that bilge pump just mounted to a plate that sits in the bottom of the bilge? I would like a second bilge pump installed. I like the thought of less screws penetrating through to the wood...
Couple questions though, how did you mount the transducer without screws into the transom and is that bilge pump just mounted to a plate that sits in the bottom of the bilge? I would like a second bilge pump installed. I like the thought of less screws penetrating through to the wood...
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
Can alway try putting a couple sand bags in the bow. But great job on the restoring the boat. Looks great and you would know the ride better than anyone
Thank you! Lots of literal blood, sweat and tears to get to this point. Lots to sort out with the main motor for us still. Definitely could come up one hole. For sure have the wrong prop installed, could definitely get more out of this 130hp. Also have a set of trim tabs that aren’t installed which will change how she behaves…
As for the transducer, I laminated a piece of composite PVC board to the transom with west systems six10 thickened epoxy. Then screwed the transducer into the PVC board.
The bilge pump and float switch are in fact mounted to a piece of aluminum. The aluminum is not mounted to anything, I just bent it to match the shape of the bilge and everything sits in there quite nicely. I haven’t screwed anything into the floor, stringers or transom.
Thanks man! I might give the sand bags a shot! Seems like a nice cheap way to see how it will behave
seachicken
Active Member
Ya can imagine what you've put into it, I've just spent the last few months cleaning up fit and finish stuff. But it never ends and I keep learning what I would have done differently.
My transducer is already screwed into the pod but would like to know the options out there.
My bilge pump is screwed down right now through the glass into wood (assumed, I didn't install) but might change it up and seal up the holes.
I'm new to trim tabs but definitely nice to have. Can see the speed and RPM change as I get trimmed properly.
Right on! I’ve actually learned a lot from the guy who built your boat I believe his name is Vance. Super helpful and knowledgeable guy!
After spending 300+ hours redoing all of the rotten structure in this thing I made it my mission to not screw anything into the new plywood core. Only holes are for the drain and pod which are coated with resin and then waxed gelcoat
seachicken
Active Member
Yes you are correct, he certainly knows his glass work, I got a bunch of pictures from the work he did. Did you flatten out your gunnels for mounts like he did on mine?
No I wish that was the case, our gunnels are original. Will probably fab up a composite spacer to allow for downrigger mounts.
seachicken
Active Member
Oh ok he flushed mine the entire way around the aft deck and added a kick out at the aft end of the cabin for water to drain. I made a stainless bracket for our Hourston, those contours certainly are nice for water to drain but a pain to mount anything.
